open any chess book, and you will find "1.e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6" thrown about everywhere on the pages. Seems like a typographical error if you have never been shown otherwise. It is not. That is algebraic notation, which is used by the majority of chess books and chess tournaments when recording the moves made during a game. As soon as you understand algebraic notation, all of those chess books, apps, and tournament scoresheets will make perfect sense to you.
Here is how you can start reading and writing algebraic notation, what do those weird symbols stand for, and some equipment that you should have if you intend to record games played with handmade chess set.
What Is Algebraic Chess Notation, Exactly?
Every square on a chessboard gets its own two character name, a letter for the column and a number for the row. Columns, called files, run a through h starting from White's left. Rows, called ranks, run 1 through 8 starting from White's side.
Put the two together and you get a square name like e4 or d5. That's genuinely the whole foundation this thing is built on. Once that part sinks in, the rest is mostly memorizing a small handful of extra symbols, which takes way less time than people assume walking in.
How to Read Algebraic Notation

Each move gets written as the piece that moved, plus the square it landed on. Pawns break the pattern a bit since they don't get a letter at all, just the square. So e4 means a pawn moved to e4. Nf3 means a knight moved to f3.
Piece letters are easy once you've seen them once or twice. K for king, Q for queen, R for rook, B for bishop, N for knight, since K was already spoken for. Reading a whole game just means chaining these piece and square combos together one move at a time. It's oddly similar to reading sheet music, in the sense that the symbols look intimidating right up until they suddenly don't.
How to Write Down Your Own Moves During a Game
Writing your own games down works the same way, just in reverse. After each move, jot the piece letter (skip it for pawns) followed by the square it landed on. A chess notation pad or a real chess scorebook usually has a column built for each player, numbered by turn, so a whole game stays organized on one page instead of turning into a mess in the margins.
A plain chess notebook does the job fine too if you're just playing casually and don't care about tournament formatting. That said, a dedicated scorebook makes going back and reviewing a game later noticeably less annoying, mostly because everything follows the exact same layout every time.
Is There Really a Best Move in Algebraic Notation?
People search this a lot, and it's worth clearing up directly. Notation doesn't rate anything as good or bad. It's a recording system, full stop, not an evaluation tool. When someone types in "best move in algebraic notation," they usually mean one of two things. Either they want the strongest opening move, which is typically e4 or d4 for White, or they just want to know how to correctly write down a move they've already picked.
Notation records what happened. Whether that move was actually any good is a completely separate question, and that's what engines and coaches are for, not the notation system itself.
Common Symbols You'll Run Into
A short list of symbols shows up over and over once you start reading real games. Worth learning early since you'll see all of these constantly.
- x means a capture. Nxe5 means a knight captured something on e5
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- means check. ++ or # usually means checkmate, depending who wrote it
- O-O is castling kingside. O-O-O is castling queenside
- An equals sign plus a piece letter, like e8=Q, means a pawn just promoted
- An exclamation mark after a move, like Nf3!, is just someone's opinion that it was a strong move, not an official part of the notation itself
Once these are second nature, reading a full game transcript stops feeling like solving a puzzle and starts feeling like reading a really short, oddly specific sentence.
The Tools That Actually Make Notation Easier
Knowing the rules on paper is one thing. Actually using them smoothly mid game is a different skill, and decent tools help more than people expect. A dedicated chess scorebook has pre-formatted columns so you're not drawing your own grid by hand while the clock's running. A chess workbook leans more toward practicing notation and tactics side by side, which suits beginners who are still getting comfortable. Some people prefer starting from an actual chess notation book that walks through examples slowly before throwing them into a live game.
Even something as small as the chess board lettering itself matters more than you'd think. A board with faint, half worn off coordinates slows notation down almost as much as not knowing the system does in the first place, and that's a genuinely frustrating way to lose time mid game over something that should be trivial.
If you're actually going to record games regularly, pair a decent notation pad with a board that clearly shows the coordinates you're writing down. A chess board with numbers and letters means you're not manually counting files and ranks every single time you jot a move down, which adds up over a long game. A marble and onyx chess set in particular tends to keep its coordinate engraving crisp for years, since the lettering is cut into the stone rather than printed on top and worn off with handling. Search chess board marble and you'll find plenty of options built exactly for this kind of regular use.
Recommended Chess Books for Learning Notation and Strategy

Notation sticks better when you learn it through real games instead of dry rules on their own, and a few books show up on pretty much every list of the best chess books for good reason. Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess covers notation and tactics together in a way that's genuinely approachable, and it's a frequent pick among chess books for beginners specifically because it doesn't assume you already know anything. Logical Chess: Move by Move by Irving Chernev annotates entire games move by move, which doubles as solid notation practice while you follow along with the actual reasoning.
Past the basics, a solid best book chess strategy pick is Silman's Complete Endgame Course, organized by skill level instead of dumping everything on you at once. None of these replace actually sitting down and playing, but they get notation feeling natural a lot faster than memorizing rules in a vacuum ever will.
Why the Board You Play On Matters Too
Notation and equipment turn out to be more connected than most people assume going in. A proper tournament chess set with correctly sized pieces and a clearly marked board makes recording moves faster and cuts down on misreading a square mid game. Casual boards with no visible coordinates are fine for a relaxed game, but they slow down anyone actually trying to keep an accurate scoresheet, especially with a clock running where every extra second staring at the board costs something real.
This is really where material starts to matter too. A genuine onyx marble chess set holds its coordinate markings and overall finish far longer than a printed plastic board that scuffs within a season. Marble chess pieces also carry real weight, which keeps them planted while you're mid notation and not worrying about a bumped table knocking something out of position. An onyx chess set offers a similar durability with a bit more dramatic veining if you want the board to double as a display piece between games, not just something pulled out for practice.
If you're upgrading specifically to support serious play and notation practice, it's worth looking at a proper tournament chess set with clean coordinate markings instead of squinting at a worn out, unmarked board every time you need to confirm a square. If you already own a board and just need a proper chess piece set to go with it, that's a simpler and often cheaper upgrade than replacing the whole setup. A chess demonstration board is worth mentioning too, mainly for teaching notation to a group, since everyone follows along on one large labeled surface instead of huddling around a tiny board trying to see whose turn it is.
Final Thoughts
Algebraic notation looks intimidating for roughly five minutes and then just stops being a mystery. Once letters mark files, numbers mark ranks, and a handful of symbols cover captures, checks, and castling, you can read almost any chess book, app, or scoresheet without translating it in your head first. It's built to be learned once and used forever, and underneath the slightly odd looking abbreviations, it really is that simple.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is algebraic chess notation? It's the standard system for recording chess moves, using a letter and number to name each square and a capital letter to identify which piece moved.
What does Nxe5 mean in chess notation? It means a knight captured a piece on square e5. The x specifically indicates a capture happened on that move.
Is there a single best move in algebraic notation? No, notation only records moves, it doesn't rate them. Whether a move is strong depends on the position, not the notation system itself.
What's the difference between a chess scorebook and a chess notebook? A scorebook has pre-formatted columns built specifically for recording moves during a game, while a notebook is more general purpose and works fine for casual note taking.
Do I need a special chess board to use notation? Not strictly, but a board with printed coordinates makes checking squares much faster while you're writing down moves during a real game.